February 2023
Stirling Range National Park is 80km north of Albany so we snuck in a few days up there to change the theme from 'beaches' to 'mountains' for a few days. Mali also wanted some more lollies and we had a few hikes in mind. Stirling Range National Park is home to the only major mountain range in the southern area of WA, rising to more than 1000m above sea level and offering some spectacular hiking opportunities.
We stopped in at Porongurup National Park on the way to walk the fantastic Granite Skywalk at Castle Rock (4km walk). The Granite Skywalk is a suspended walkway that spirals around the huge granite outcrop of Castle Rock at the summit. The 2km walk up from the picnic area passes through jarrah, marri and karri forest, and also the Balancing rock, precariously balanced on another rounded rock looking as though it could roll away at any moment. Reaching the upper lookout requires walking through and over rocks with metal handholds and climbing a 6m ladder. Mali took it all in her stride, whilst being fed lollies at each check point - if Mali had her way the checkpoints would be every 10 steps. The exhilarating views at the top included undulating farmland to Albany, the Stirling Ranges to the north, and the landscape beyond. It truly was breathtaking and another climbing goal for Mali. Well done my little trooper!!
We spent 2 nights at the Stirling Range Retreat. It was not cheap at $40 for an unpowered site, but it certainly delivered. We thought site #19 had the best sunset views and a little possum was nesting in the tree above. Craig and I sat out to enjoy the sunset and saw some micro-bats and an owl flying past with some prey in its mouth (the only reason we determined it was an owl is that it was silent whilst flying). We felt like we were in the Serengeti and were just waiting for a lion to walk past. There was a lovely pool, which we had trouble finding as it was hidden in the bushland. And - the best highlight of all - we saw so many 'Poppys'. Some of you will have met our beautiful Regent Parrot, Poppy, which we had to re-home before we left. We had finally spotted some wild populations of her kind. Needless to say, we were all rather excited. I tried so hard but I could not get a photo as they flitted in and out of the trees too quickly.
The next morning I was planning to walk Bluff Knoll, the highest peak of the Stirling Range at 1,099 metres above sea level (a 6.8km walk). Unfortunately, that night (after walking the Granite Skywalk hike) my former broken right ankle throbbed and the arthritis in my left knee returned with a vengeance. I simply could not walk up Bluff Knoll until I had recovered and we only had a day there. So, sadly I missed out. I did enjoy a coffee at the Bluff Knoll carpark and gazed at the view and I have added it to my growing list of things we have not managed to do on this trip. We absolutely loved the picturesque and serene Stirling Ranges and I will definitely be back.
Bluff Knoll (from below....boo).
We now had 3 days in Albany. Within minutes of arriving Craig commented that he could certainly live in Albany. We realised quickly that we could spend a week here but we had booked a week afterwards in Bremer Bay with the Kozbiels (one of the reasons booking ahead is not always the best plan on a trip like this). Albany is the 6th largest city in WA with a population of about 40,000. It is known for its surrounding natural environment and well-preserved heritage buildings. The town has a role in the ANZAC legend, being the last port of call for troopships departing Australia in the First World War. Princess Royal Harbour is the largest natural harbour in WA and was the first port of call for the mail from England back in the 1800s.
We stayed out of town at the Panorama Caravan Park, on the opposite side of the harbour. Boy were we glad we read the rave reviews about the young owners and chose this place. We got the best spot in the park with epic views of Albany across the harbour and a wonderful jetty populated by pelicans. It was one of our best campsites. Mali loved chasing the pelicans and checking Craig's crab pots (every 5 minutes).
Now there was more to Albany than history and our camp spot. I spent the morning hiking the 12km Bald Head hike along the Flinders Peninsula, Torndirrup National Park (also opposite Albany City on the other side of the harbour). Walking along the narrow ridge line up and over Isthmus Hill this hikes offers utterly spectacular views. The trail was tough but 'my oh my' it was worth it. I could not decide if it reminded me of Tasmania or the Whitsundays. Just breathtaking!!
Muttonbird Beach (top), Albany Wind Farm (middle and bottom)
We spent the days enjoying the local beaches including Middleton Beach and Emu Point. We drove out to the Albany Wind Farm on the way to Muttonbird Beach. The wind farm is the largest in the country and supplies 80% of Albany's power needs (well done Albany!). The wind farm walk loop was a great way to allow the public to see the eco-friendly turbines and there is plenty of signage along the way including some inspirational quotes (great for Captain Ready here). The day we visited there were technicians hanging from the turbines. I am pretty sure it was 'smoko' as they were yakking away and munching on some food when I walked under them - what a spot for morning tea! The walk offers spectacular views of the Torndirrup Peninsula and Sand Patch. The Bibbulman hiking trail (1000km from Perth to Albany) passes through the coast here.
Whilst Craig visited the ANZAC Memorial, Mali and I spent the afternoon at the Museum of the Great Southern learning about lighthouses and old cars. Mali drove an old car set-up with a computer screen, changing gears and stopping for fuel in the outback (she spent a fair amount of time 'off-road' driving over shrubs and a few lizards). I could not get her off the seat she was so focused on driving! They even had 2 beat-up cars from the TV series 'Bush Mechanics'. We then visited the replica Brig Amity. The ship travelled 6 weeks, with many convicts onboard, from Sydney to King George Sound to establish the first European settlement on the west coast of Australia. Mali enjoyed the hammock in the sleeping quarters, where she could stand mind you. I had to do the walking duck squat the whole way through (I know that surprises many of you) and we did a number of laps. Payback for the long uphill bush walks perhaps???
Our last adventure was visiting the Historic Whaling Station. This was so very impressive. The entry fee was a little pricey but it included entry to the wildlife park opposite. We spent hours here. What we enjoyed most about the museum was the absence of fencing & cordoned off areas and 'no entry' or 'don't touch' signs which just get annoying after a while. You could go just about anywhere - into the bowels of an old whaling ship, the processing areas, even the old tanks where the oil was stored. They had a 3D movie theatre set-up in one of the old tanks and a spiral staircase taking you up to a great view from the top. They even had a blue whale skeleton - it was enormous!!
Did you know that by the mid 1970s Albany's whaling industry supplied up to 60% of the world's demand for whale oil? Wow!! I definitely think the job of a flenser had to be the worst - cutting off all the flesh to be boiled down into the many products that were made from whales. Eew!! At least they used as much of the whale as possible rather than just the oil, given the efforts involved in whaling and the tragic impacts it had on whale populations. The industry collapsed in the late 1970s as it was no longer feasible and pressures on the conservation of whales made its continuation tenuous.
One thing I really love about the whole SW region of WA is its natural beauty and the way this has been showcased. The hiking trails are numerous and incredibly well-maintained and the number of astoundingly long hiking and mountain biking trails that wind through some incredible national parks and pass through many towns is impressive. It is an outdoor adventurers wonderland and I love it.
We have been so busy exploring and enjoying some off-grid camping that I have not been able to keep up with the blog. Thank you to those who read it and I hope you still enjoy learning about our current nomad life. It will be a wonderful journal for us when we get home one day.
Absolutely amazing!! Love reading your adventures. Brings back a whole lot of wonderful memories of last year for us. Keep ‘em coming and yes that pocket of WA Is definitely stunning.