February 2023
Fitzgerald River National Park (FRNP) has been on my list for some time. It sits between Bremer Bay (to the west) and Hopetoun (to the east), both towns acting as a gateway to each end of the park with the central wilderness being only accessible by foot. Given its exceptional wilderness value I wanted to explore both sides – so we did.
‘Fitz’ (as many of the locals call it) is one of the largest and most botanically significant national parks in Australia. It is one of the most flora rich conservation areas in WA. Approximately 20% of the State’s described plant species, 22 mammal species, 41 reptile species, and more than 200 bird species can be found there. More species of mammal live in this park than any other reserve in south-western Australia. In 2017 it was heritage listed as one of the most important flora areas in the world under UNESCO, recognising the park as the core of an expanded Biosphere Reserve. It is considered one of the most important flora areas in the world with around 2,500 plant species and has been compared to the Galapagos islands in terms of conservation importance. Partially isolated from the rest of Australia by the vast desert and semi desert regions in central Australia, plants here have evolved into many new species, many endemic to the region. To give you some perspective of its size, there is a Hakea Trail 23km long, which only covers about a fifth the length of the park.
We had booked a week in Bremer Bay to spend with the Kozbiels, who have become our very dear friends. These guys travel much slower than most families we have met and, as a result, they tend to slow us down too. Our first day together was spent at Blossoms Beach and you cannot get much better than this. Crystal clear water, turquoise hues, a white sandy beach and small waves for the kiddies to surf. We were in and out of the water all day.
Point Ann (left), two blokes dangling their rods (right)
We accessed FRNP on some hellish corrugated roads into Point Ann. Here is a natural whale nursery and popular whale watching spot however, we were out of season. There were some good waves but there was also a lot of talk about sharks. This seems to be normal when in this part of the world. Craig generally will not surf if he is the only person out and I regularly get myself so worked up when snorkelling that and only last a few minutes. Scott and Craig spent some time dangling their massive beach rods hoping to catch a fish worth eating but only pulled in small herring (which we subsequently fed to the large gulls). Access to a safe looking swimming beach was a little difficult for the kids so they had a splash around and then we ventured back on the corrugations to Bremer Bay.
The Wellstead Museum was really interesting. They had a huge assortments of old 'stuff' including old sewing machines, giant syringes, very old instruments, an old mail coach/wagon, old farming machinery, some of the first cars in Australia and much more. There was a shelf full of encyclopedias, some old telephones and cassette players, so I am now old enough to see items I grew up with in museums. Argghh!!!!
The Wellstead estuary is beautiful. We snorkelled along with the tide, exploring the marine life in and around the tree roots on the water’s edge. We spent an afternoon at Little Boat Harbour Beach, and I continued to search for Weedy Sea Dragons whilst Scotty tried to spear a fish. We fished from Flat Rock, near the estuary mouth, and I decided to nonchalantly toss the car keys over the edge into a deep crevice full of seaweed below to test if the rocks were flat. They were not. Most would argue it was obvious that they were not. After some searching, I spotted them about 80cm deep in a crevice full of seaweed. The hero of the day, Scotty, reached in for them after we spent some time trying to hook them with a fish hook on the end of a line. I will admit I thought a moray eel could be down there and decide to munch on my hand. Scotty probably thought the same thing. Honestly, I do not think my arm would have even reached down there. Thanks Scotty!!! I am not so certain that this 1 #corrinefail was worth 3 of Craig’s #craigfails (especially given the unleaded fuel car breakdown, in the middle of nowhere, on a hill, which required towing the van and the car 100km………enough said).
Flat Rocks (top), Little Boat Harbour Beach
(middle & bottom)
Roxy and I enjoyed our many early morning walks. I now affectionately name them ‘Roxy therapy’ as everything and anything comes up during our walks. One of the wonderful things about meeting friends on the road is that many become very special friendships in a short period of time. You often move through the usual small talk and build a friendship based on shared ideals and the similar dream we have fulfilled by packing up our lives and travelling with our families. After long periods without having close friends nearby I find I am ever so grateful for these friendships I have formed on the road. And even though I love my husband and best friend Craig, we spend so much time together that we do need other company at times. There are not many friends that we get to meet up with time and time again so we consider ourselves lucky to have seen the Kozbiels 3 times during our adventures.
The kids had so much fun together painting rocks, faces and hair (yep, Mali was super excited when Roxy pulled out the hair chalk as she had been talking about dying her hair numerous colours for a while – thank god it washed out!). We had a few campfires, which is rare for caravan parks. The nights are getting cooler, so this was a treat. The old, recycled sink that we carry on the back of the van got a workout. We all commented on how Bremer Bay is not one of those places that everyone seems to need to tick off on their trip around Australia. However, it was a gem of a place. It was a quiet coastal town, with lovely regulars visiting the park. We even met one local who told us the story of the caravan park almost selling to one of the big players (BIG4). She got together with many of the regular visitors who had permanent vans there and they all bought the park and now manage it through a board of directors. We were thrilled to hear this history.
We said goodbye to our mates and took the traditional group photo. We now have 18months worth of these group photos and I have lined them up below to show how much the kids have grown, and we have aged (haha). We moved on to Hopetoun and landed a fantastic 48hr free RV stop. We were adjacent to the beach and only a 5-minute walk to the playground (with a jumping pillow), solar hot showers, swimming beaches and a pontoon and the local bakery. Win win!!!
What is so beautiful about Fitz? Well, many wildflowers are there all year round, captivating coastlines, breathtaking coastal bush walks, ancient mountain ranges, rugged river valleys, sand plains, estuaries and inlets forming a kaleidoscope of nature-based experiences.
Hamersley Inlet (top left), and views from East Mt Barren
We drove all the way into Hamersley Inlet and worked out was back east. The whole way we were rewarded with scenic views, wildflowers, and wildlife. Hamersley Inlet reminded me of Tasmania, surrounded by wilderness and crisp, clean water still as a millpond. It was so serene. Gosh I wish we still had our little boat (you have no idea how many times I have said that).
All 3 of us were going to attempt the East Mt Barren 2.6km/3hr hike but Mali was a little over being encouraged up mountain walks, even with the lolly enticements (I think my luck has run out). Whilst Craig and Mali home-schooled on the beach, I had the morning off and climbed it myself offering panoramic views over the whole park. I will have to admit it was climbing over and around rocks the whole way and would have been a challenge for Mali. It was challenging enough for me with my weak and wobbly ankle. I spotted the Royal Hakea, Barren Regelia and some amazing Banksias, some of the most beautiful plants in the park. I also spotted the biggest dugite (western brown snake) I have ever seen. It was literally blocking the path and sat there looking up at me. I bush bashed to get around wondering if I might stumble upon another one and continued the walk stomping my boots and singing whatever ridiculous lyrics came out of my voice just to make some noise. The view at the top and on the way up was glorious. I love the feeling you get at the end of a thoroughly enjoyable bushwalk – for me it is like a good meditation. I feel connected, balanced, and refreshed. I do miss company on some of these walks, but the solitude is healing for me, and I need it.
Some of the most beautiful flowers of Fitzgerald River National Park
Def need to add this little gem to my wish list. I'm loving all the plants talk
wow, that's stunning~~~ I am so jealous of you guys.