May 2021
Day 1
We caught the Manta Ray Barge ($130 return) just up the road from Inskip Point to Hook Point at 7am ensuring we had most of the day on the low tide. The first 11km of the beach is only really accessible on low tide. We were lucky we had weak tides for the whole 4 days we were there.
We stopped at Eurong (a small village with resort accommodation, toilets and shop) for a pit stop. Our first fun stop was Eli Creek (65km from Hook Point – given you can travel 80km/hr along most of the beach it didn’t take us long to get here). This is where we saw a pair of dingos on the beach. There were very few people at Eli Creek so we donned our wetsuits and walked along the boardwalk to the launch point. We did about 3-4 trips as it was only about 100m long. It was wonderful to have most of the place to ourselves - until the tour buses arrived.
Next we stopped at the Maheno Wreck, just a few kilometres north. This ship was blown ashore due to a cyclone in 1935. She was actually en-route (via tow) to Japan, where she had been sold for scrap. She had been used as a hospital ship during World War 1. It was spectacular to see a shipwreck right on the shore slowly rusting away.
Next we drove past the Pinnacles (coloured sand cliffs) and up to Dundabara – a fenced off camping area with great facilities – and $2 hot showers!! The QLD National Parks have produced a great map (posted here with my route added) which has sections along the beaches marked with distances, loads of information about different campsites and their facilities, good walks etc. The fenced off camping areas are mostly managed by National Parks and are great if traveling with kids. You don’t need to worry about dingos. From the campsite there is a short walk to Wun’gul Sandblow or a 5km loop that includes Lake Bowarrady. The sandblows on Fraser are so interesting. The south-easterly winds excavate the sand from the beach blowing it westwards often burying forest and other plant communities. Eventually the vegetation on the lower dunes grows back separating the blow from the beach making it appear like a desert scape.
Day 2
We push north to Indian Head and Middle Rocks where we cross the heads through a sandy inland track to Orchid beach for a coffee and another ice cream. We enjoy a swim and some playing on the beach at Waddy Point.
We contemplated the Northern Forest Scenic Drive into Lake Allom. However, the map explained that the tracks were for experience four-wheel drivers so we decided against it. A day later, we spoke to a couple we met who said it was the same as any other track we had used on the island and told us the turtles would approach you if you simply clapped. We were, obviously, bummed! Afterwards we head back south past The Maheno wreck and Eli Creek to Winnam beach camp (Zone 3) for the night. Here we have no protection from the dingos, so Mali decides to use a piece of string to attach herself to her father to ensure she doesn’t go astray – she is rather good as getting excited and trotting off to the beach without waiting for us. The dingos here have become very aggressive over the years as they have become used to people feeding them or accidentally leaving food. A few children have been attacked. We are warned to keep very close to Mali and we had already seen 4 dingos by this point. We enjoy a fish on the beach – Craig catching a great sized flathead (which we add to our freeze-dried curry) and a large Eastern Shovelnose Ray which we threw back. We are put to bed early when the rains arrive – with no shelter but the tent we play ‘Who am I’ before dozing off to sleep.
Day 3
Today we leave the beach and enter the Central Lakes Scenic Drive. The tracks are still sandy and wind through different types of forest gradually emerging into lush rainforest. Our first stop is Lake Wabby, a small freshwater lake adjacent to the Hammerstone Sandblow which is slowly moving into the lake. Eventually the lake will disappear. Many other lakes on Fraser are too acidic but Wabby isn’t so it is home to 13 fish species!
Next we come across Lake McKenzie, the most spectacular lake on Fraser. McKenzie is a perched lake, so it contains only rainwater. The sand and organic matter at its base create an impervious layer, preventing the water from draining away. As we arrive on the sandy shore, we can see a wall of rain approaching so we bolt back up to the shelters and wait. We squeezed in a swim later and it was such a spectacular place. It rained again so we weren’t able to enjoy the amazing sight for long.
Tonight, we camp at Central Station in the middle of the Island and I am completely blown away at the beauty of the forest. It is so lush and green, and we camp next to huge tree trunks covered in moss and lichen.
We set-up camp and then set-off to explore Lake Birrabeen (8km south) and the boardwalk along Wangoolba Creek (accessed from Central Station day use area). The creek is crystal clear and the rainforest breathtaking. Tonight, the rain comes again, and we use the beach cabana as a shelter before retiring to bed at about 7:30 listening to the rain on the roof of the tent. Bliss!!
Day 4
We pack up and drive out along the sand track to Eurong before pulling onto the beach, once again, and driving south to catch the barge back to our caravan at Inskip Point.
Thanks Fraser! We loved our first adventure bush camping with our hilux Yokel. Next time we would like less rain.
Corrine, Craig and Mali
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