Ningaloo Reef - absolute favourite!!!

June - October 2022

I’m unsure how I am going to honor such a spectacular place with my own words. You really need to see Ningaloo Reef for itself to appreciate its immense beauty. However, for those of you with an interest and a bit of time on your hands, read on.

From July to October we lived and worked at Yardie Homestead, which lies on the west side of Cape Range – a cape that sits to the west of the Pilbara region and at the northern extent of Ningaloo Reef. The largest fringing reef in the world, stretching 300km from Carnarvon’s Red Bluff to the Murion Islands just north of Cape Range, Ningaloo Reef really is an ocean paradise. It was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Area in 2011 and includes the adjacent land-based Cape Range National Park. I have just spent the most difficult yet the most incredible 3 months in a heavenly place.

Ningaloo Reef is special for so many reasons:

1. It is one of the world’s largest aggregation of whales sharks (300-500 individuals), which arrive following the mass coral spawning.

2. The reef is home to over 450 different species of marine life, including large pelagic fish, humpback whales, dolphins, manta rays, dugongs, and turtles.

3. The Reef is home to 250 different species of coral, representing over 50% of the Indian Ocean’s entire coral life.

4. Up to 40,000 humpback whales grace Ningaloo’s pristine waters between June to late October as they make their annual migratory journey north from the Antarctic for mating and calving.

5. It is one of the most important nesting grounds in the world for green and loggerhead turtles.

6. The Exmouth Gulf, which occurs on the eastern side of the cape is an important nursery for many of these species and plays a pivotal role in the health of Ningaloo Reef. Let’s not forget cape Range National Park - situated on the west side of Cape Range. It is a spectacular place of rugged limestone ranges and breathtaking deep canyons, caves and groundwater streams such as Yardie Creek. Cape Range is where two biomes overlap (the Pilbara to the north and the Scrublands to the south). Therefore many species native to both are present creating enormous diversity in such a harsh, arid landscape.

Several weeks before we departed Kalbarri we didn’t actually know if we would get back to Exmouth. Luckily, Yardie Homestead were looking for an ‘all-rounder’ couple to help out part-time. We jumped at this opportunity – free rent, 1-2 days of work a week and located 5 minutes from the only boat ramp. Yew!!! When we arrived, it was the glassiest day they had seen on the reef for weeks….but we didn’t have the boat with us! We still had to return to Kalbarri to tow it back (~16hr return drive). Nevertheless, we drove 2km up the road, climbed the dunes and were literally amazed at what we saw. A pristine, turquoise beach, not a sole to be seen and a turtle swimming by. We all slid down the dunes and dived into the water.

“This is our new home Mali!”

“Woohoo” she answered, splashing about. We were all giggling like school children.

The next 3 months were literally filled with oodles of boat trips for fishing, snorkelling and whale spotting. Two special days stand out for us.

Ningaloo Reef

We had booked one of the last remaining campsites in Cape Range NP (these sites are booked up 6 months in advance) and headed off with the camping gear and boat. We launched from the beach at Yardie Creek. Given the boat is not as small and light as most 'tinnies' we were a little tentative but we knew we had to explore the reef out there and the nearest boat ramp was 50km away! What some people would consider a ‘lack-of’ facilities are in fact one of the reasons this area still remains pristine and untouched. As we motored out past the reef break we noticed a pod of whales up ahead. As the code of conduct specifies we did not approach the whales and killed the engine to appreciate these gentle giants. We noticed they were moving closer but continued to admire their grace as they popped up occasionally for a breath and a 'blow'. Before we know it 4 of them broke the surface about 2m from the boat, let out a blow and then dived under the boat (one spinning on its back to investigate us). Craig and Mali were near to crapping themselves, Craig thinking we might end up like Moby dick sitting on top of a whale still in the boat. Meanwhile I had frozen in delight and was basking in the experience, trusting that the whales knew exactly what they were doing.

We all felt blessed as we motored back to the inside of the reef for some snorkelling. As I dived in I noticed the complexity of the corals, the layers upon layers of colours and textures. I didn’t really notice the fish as the corals stole the show. Thinking our day was complete we wandered back to camp where we spotted a gorgeous Gould’s monitor and some spinifex hopping mice sharing their habitat with us. We also enjoyed a beautiful sunset and watched Craig catch 2 decent sized spangled emperors.

The next morning, we were up before first light to pack up the tents and cross Yardie Creek (a beach water crossing). We enjoyed a hot coffee and a sunrise and now it was time to explore Yardie Creek Gorge. This is the only gorge in Cape Range with permanent water. We inflated the SUP and Mali and I paddled as far as we could go along the peacefully quiet gorge. Mali was so quiet the whole way, simply soaking up the beauty here. We witnessed an Osprey feeding her young in a nest 1m from us on a rock ledge, courting herons, a male western bowerbird dancing around his white bower and black-flanked rock wallabies jumping up and down the gorge walls. It was utterly fabulous!!

Exmouth Gulf

The forecast didn’t look that great but our neighbours, Tom and Rachel, said they were heading to the Gulf for the day in their boat so we thought we would head over too and avoid the westerly winds. We enjoyed our second most spectacular day here. The water had completely glassed off so we headed out so Craig could fish in the deeper water (which normally doesn’t happen with Mali and I in the boat as we get sick). As Mali and Craig tried their luck I sat back and listened to the whales thumping and bellowing below. Normally, they are breaching all over the place out here in the gulf but today they were having a good conversation underwater and we could hear most of it. It was captivating.

The next thing I saw was what looked like two sharks on the surface of the water. We could see one dorsal fin and what looked like a second one. Given we had never seen one frolicking on the surface it took us a while to figure out it was a manta ray splashing about with its pectoral fins. I almost fell out of the boat. The day was just getting better and better.

We decided to go looking for our friends and head closer to shore. We passed a few whales and then began slowly drifting over the inshore reef. It isn’t like Ningaloo Reef, with its density of corals, but a rocky reef with patches of colourful corals and sponges and still a lot of fish. Mali and I hung over the bow and watched it all from above – it was so clear and calm it was like looking through aquarium glass. We saw loads of beautiful fish and two types of sea snakes but the next siting was super exciting. I saw two grey figures ahead and before I knew it the boat was drifting over a dugong and her calf feeding below. I screamed at Craig to turn the engine off but he had no idea why. We didn’t run over them (the clarity of the water makes it look shallow but we were actually in 2 m of water) and as we looked over the stern they were swimming off.

Literally minutes later we saw a familiar splash in the water – it was another manta ray. OMG OMG!!! I donned my gear, grabbed the gopro and delicately entered the water. As I approached the creature it turned and swam past displaying its white belly. It’s cephalic fins (the modified, horn shaped fins that assist with feeding) were beautiful to see and its mouth was surrounded by small fish and remoras trying to pick off any morsels. I felt a tugging on my fins and turn around to see that Mali has dived in to join me. My excitement was so contagious she followed me in and was squealing with delight when we got back on board…..”Mummy, I’m so excited, you finally saw your manta ray!!” What an enchanting experience. To see Mali's face light up at these experiences made me the happiest mother on earth.

These were two of our favourite days in Exmouth but we had so many more great experiences. All 3 of us got hooked on squidding and Craig taught us the tricks (after he learnt them from the local squid man at Yardie Homestead). After we cast the jigs and continue to motor along at a slow pace, Mali watches the lines for movement and proceeds to shout and jump up and down when they move. Two of us then reel in the line, hoping that the second one secures a catch, since once you catch one, more will follow. At times Craig was trying to unhook 1-2 squid in order to get the lines back out as more squid were just floating about right near the boat like they were waiting to be fed. Mali started out hiding under a towel as to avoid being inked – which inevitably happens - but she got used to this and eventually became fascinated (and helpful - collecting the net and opening the esky to dump the loot). The ‘squirt’ sound is rather loud and the volume of ink that a squid has available is astounding. The boat was almost painted black with ink after a fairly large haul.

We continued eating a lot of fish and had to convert our dometic car fridge into a freezer. Craig caught another mackerel, grassy and red-throat emperors, numerous types of perch, robinson bream, jobis, numerous cod and loads of squid. On occasion Craig would return with nothing and tell us he got ‘sharked’. For those who don’t fish this means a shark got his catch before he reeled it in and, he assures me, he lost some big catches this way. At first I thought it might have been an excuse for coming back empty handed but Craig has become a pretty good fisherman so he had no need for excuses.

Craig was rather chuffed that he got to surf a bit more. There were quite a few breaks to choose from and when the swell was big hardly anyone was out. Most people surfing in Exmouth are beginners so the breaks are chock-full when there is small swell. Craig had many surfs on his own and was frothing at the experience. Given we only work 1-2 days a week (with Craig doing some additional days fixing roofs and installing a kitchen) we had plenty of time to explore.

Mali turned 7 and bought herself a giant stuffed turtle, which now needs a full bunk bed for space. Craig and I also enjoyed watching Mali go from being towed on the boogie board behind the boat, riding her boogie board in the surf and now stand-up surfing on my board. Without a doubt Craig was the proudest father on earth that day.

We had some friends visit us from Kalbarri - a school friend of Mali’s and her family - so we enjoyed a few days together. It was tough for Mali at Yardie Homestead as there weren't any children living there and those that were around were only passing through. She missed her friends from Kalbarri and was well-aware that if she met some friends at Yardie they would …...”probably leave tomorrow” (her words).

Home-schooling her was very difficult towards the end when all she needed was some time with other children. We visited the parks in Exmouth, where she often made a friend, and the Discovery Centre and library. Towards the end, we met a lovely family who originated from Wollongong, the Grozniks. Amanda’s mother works with Craig's mum in Wollongong and we are ever so grateful they put us in touch as we all enjoyed each other’s company and the girls had a great time together. Shaz stayed with us for a week and we an epic time on the boat, camping and some wonderful early morning walks and yoga classes (thanks Shaz!).

Yvette, Carl and Asha visited in October and we saw out the remainder of our time in Exmouth with them. We still had the boat so we enjoyed some snorkelling off our favourite 'bommies'. I also took Carl and Yvette down to Turquoise Bay one afternoon for a late afternoon snorkel in the howling wind. The water was choppy and rough and no one else was out snorkelling but the marine life had nowhere else to go so we dived in and enjoyed the drift dive. It was probably one of their favourite snorkels as we saw a reef shark and a turtle (and plenty more). They were both amazed at how easy it was to get to these awesome snorkel sites and the diversity of marine life we saw. Unlike the Great Barrier Reef, Ningaloo is a fringing reef and it benefits from its remoteness and low population density affording it a high degree of natural protection.

We also enjoyed sunsets and dinner on the beach and a few days in Coral Bay (1.5hours south) staying in an apartment ‘le Grand’ (we all felt like celebrities after the last 4 days living in the van). By this point the wind had picked up considerably and the only snorkel that took place was Yvette and Carl checking out the front beach. They came back dismayed as the coral was bleached through their entire snorkel. This was due to a freak coral bleaching event earlier in the year that may take a decade to recover.

As Yvette, Carl and Asha packed their little hire car for their departure we packed up our home and followed them out of the park over to Manta Rays Ningaloo Beach Resort in Exmouth for a farewell lunch (we had a $300 voucher to spend). We sure felt like celebrities that day, sipping champagne and eating bloody mary oyster shots. What a way to end our 3 months in Exmouth with the people we love. Thanks for coming guys!!

Sunset dinners (and creepy paparazzi in the background)

I did make a reference above to my time in Exmouth being the most 'difficult 3 months'. This is such a contrast to the stories I have just shared above. It is, in fact, true and if it weren't for the magical beauty of the place and my strong connection to the ocean I am not sure I would be where I am now. I experienced a nasty relapse into depression. It all started when we left Kalbarri. It was so scary and so very difficult. This time I believe that my experience as a meditator and my natural surroundings really helped. I am also grateful for having Craig as my best friend and my partner in life to help me through this. And even though my family weren't around they also supported me the best they could from afar. Thank you! I'm not out of the dark completely and I know that depression will always be something I will need to manage carefully throughout my life but I have now developed even more skills to better do so.

We are now heading to Karijini National Park where we will spend a week with one of our favourite families – the Cozbiels (the first family we met on our travels). I will celebrate my 45th birthday and then we will head south along the Great Northern Highway and the goldfields region before heading back to Kalbarri to put Mali in school for 2 weeks and complete some minor caravan repairs. As parents, we both can’t wait for a little break from home-schooling and I am looking forward to some time to focus on my meditation, long walks and catching up with friends.