February 2023
The forests we explored in the Pemberton area were simply an introduction to the enchanting forests and environments in the southern forests region of SW Western Australia. We went back to through Pemberton and enjoyed a $20 stay on an avocado farm. We watched them harvest the cauliflowers whilst we were there and could smell them all afternoon - apparently only cooked cauliflower smells but I could smell the sulphur from the vegetables (like a mild fart really - but it did not ruin our stay).
We found some more watering holes. Big Brook Dam was wonderful. Mali convinced us all to swim to the other side. I had a noodle and Craig had Mali's tiny boogie board - needless to say it was rather awkward and it felt like we were moving nowhere most of the time but we made it there and back and Mali beat us all (and made a point if it). We all went to the Pemberton Mountain Bike Park and enjoyed some fun trails. Then we took a dip in the Pemberton Natural Swimming Pool. There was a huge floating plastic pontoon in the middle and Mali decided she was a tug boat and proceeded to push it from one side to the other - dragging us along with it. The mountain bike trails traversed the hills on the opposite side so we enjoyed watching some keen bikers sessioning some of the jumps.
Big Brook Dam (top), Pemberton Natural Pool and MTB tracks in background (below)
A little south we stopped in Northcliffe to stroll through the unique Understory Art and Nature Walk that begins from the Northcliffe Visitor Centre. It sounded interesting so we took a gamble and paid to walk through. Whoah!!! We spent hours marvelling at creative sculptures and looking for the 40 face sculptures in the trees. The trail was an outstanding example of a small town community building something from the ground up.
Northcliffe's understory art trail - magnificent!
Next stop, Walpole (100km SE). Arriving here was as though I had just landed in Tasmania. The town is located on the Walpole Inlet; a small estuary connected through a narrow channel with the bigger and deeper Nornalup Inlet. The fact that it was overcast and drizzling probably helped. We were surrounded by The Walpole Wilderness area, which encompasses 1o national parks totalling 363,000 hectares (roughly the size of Luxenbourg and Samoa). This unspoilt landscape includes ancient forests, tranquil rivers and wetlands, striking granite peaks and sheer coastal cliffs that overlook the southern ocean.
The Walpole area is best known for the Valley of the Giants; red tingle trees which are endemic to this small region of Western Australia. At the Tree Top Walk, a 600-metre walkway rises 40 metres above the forest floor and provides a birds eye view of the forest. We joined the forest tour and learnt about the magnificent tingle trees - which can grow to 400 years old and 25 metres in diameter. There is one tree trunk (which you can no longer visit) that you could once drive through. So many people used to visit to get a photo of their vehicle inside it that the tree roots are now so damaged it is no longer safe. You can still walk through the hollowed-out butt of one tree. Mali was fascinated by the 'nature's velcro' leaves so we stuck them all over her shirt. She continues to collect flowers and plant samples on all of our walks (they end up stuffed in my backpack pocket and are left there to shrivel up or become part of a flower arrangement).
Tree Top walk, Giant Tingle Tree and Velcro Mali
We loved our two nights at the Valley of the Giants Olives and Wine. We had our own private spot & we enjoyed outdoor showers, sunsets & munched on our giant jar of olives.
Mount Frankland was the first uphill mountain hike for Mali. It was not long but it included over 300 stairs to the top. We completed the Summit Walk and chatted to the ranger in the tower whose job it is to look for smoke and alert the firefighters. You could see wisps of smoke in various directions which were simply the remains of a controlled burn weeks past. We drove past a section which was still smouldering after being burnt weeks ago. No wonder it is so easy for a full blown fire to begin on a hot day in the forest. Yikes!! We took the longer route back on the ‘round the rock’ trail at the base of the granite outcrop, which seemed to take forever. Mali skipped along enjoying the plant collecting. For some time she has needed continual encouragement (and lollies) on these walks but she really has found her groove and as soon as we start walking she is cheery and really enjoys being in the forest (her mother's heart is fluttering).
Ted (above) has been with us the whole trip and wasn't phased by the ladder climbs
Denmark was the last stop in this region. Denmark is a charming town located on the banks of the beautiful Denmark River and surrounded by a striking natural backdrop of native woodland, green farmland and the rugged south coast. The Riverbend Caravan Park was one of our favourites. It is a few kilometres out of town and situated along the river. It is beautifully landscaped and cared for by a middle-aged couple. There was a lovely path along the river into town where we hired some electric scooters for a zoom down to the river mouth. The local parks and playgrounds were wonderful for Mali to play and to enjoy a picnic. Denmark is known as a bit of a boho village with lots of local artists and a thriving culture. There were many young families about and hip shops and cafes. It also boasts a section of the 1000km-long Bibbulmun Track, one of the world’s longest walks and a really expensive IGA (but that is no surprise).
Denmark River (above)
We drove west to Greens Pool and Elephant Rocks (huge rock formations that rest in the water - and apparently look like elephants) within William Bay National Park. The water is gradually getting cooler as we move east but still totally refreshing. We stopped in at the Denmark Good Food Factory as our friend in Kalbarri recommended their 'biggest ice cream cones'. Holey Moley!! Mali almost ate all of hers. I thought she might puke but she is a sweet tooth that is for sure.
Elephant Rocks, Mt William National Park
As we keep moving east all three of us have changed gears. As we get closer to our two year anniversary on the road we are all feeling a little 'travel fatigue'. We still love this lifestyle and are grateful that we are where we are but we are finding that as we visit 'beach after beach' and 'town after town' we appreciate each a little less. We believe this is a sign that soon it is time to stop and allow our adventure to come to a natural end. We still have 1000s of kilometres to travel and will be doing our best to change it up a little. to keep the spark alive.
Until our next adventure xx
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